Sunday, April 11, 2021

A Cool Breeze in Sicily

The cobblestone streets that once echoed sounds of strutting mules are now lined with  Fiats.  Satellite dishes accent rustic balconies like obese quotations marks. A nearby bakery emits tentacles  of aroma inviting you to come closer.    The mountains embracing this small Sicilian town, Ventimiglia, are too awesome to be captured by any camera....fodder for national anthems.


We just finished an incredible meal and needed to stretch our legs.  “Fascemu una caminata” (we’re going for a walk), I stated to our gracious host Ignacio.  He responded quickly, “a pedi ?”(on foot ?) as if this was such an unusual request.  He quickly pulled  keys out of his pocket stating “lets go by car”.  After some explaining, he finally conceded .   

Our cadence was brisk as we walked on this cool day .  As we approached the church in the center of town just steps from the house where my mother was born, we noticed an old man following us.  My children, being seasoned New Yorkers, increased their pace to distance themselves.  His pace increased as well and his cane started to drag along the pavement.  I smiled at my wife and we stopped.  The children drew closer as I began to speak.

“Bon Giorno”, I said to the man who stared at me in amazement.  He wore a cliché Sicilian cap and darkened Fellini-type lenses that partially covered a squinting right eye.  The wrinkles on his face spoke of years of hard work in the fields.  Sicilian farmers, un-affectionately called “veddani”, once tended the food resources that sustained great civilizations.

After a few moments of inspection, he said in a most certain manner, “ma yo ti canusciu”.    Now this is creepy, I thought.   This old man, meeting me for the first time, knows me!   He then stated emphatically “You have the eyes of an Attardo” .   After a brief conversation and exchange of pleasantries, I explained to my puzzled children that this man knew my grandfather, nonnu Ciro.  When I bid him farewell, I noticed his eyes were a bit glassy.  It could have been the cool breeze. Or it could have been the fleeting remembrance of an old friend he would never see again.  

From the piazza in front of the church I could see the house where my grandparents lived.  I remembered the photos from my parents wedding album and  I triangulated our position.  Without explanation, I suddenly felt an unexpected pang of nostalgia.  Perhap it was some form of prenatal memory that triggered an emotional connection.  We turned the corner and saw a street sign  “Via  Attardo Ciro” on the wall of a building.  My son called out “Dad, there’s a street with your name on it” and then snapped photos to document my celebrity.   
 
As a scientist I knew the bonds connecting my purines in a helical fashion were engineered in this town. This Sicilian DNA, my DNA, was replicated exactly with every cell division . How could these ancestral atoms, known to me so well on a cellular level, be unfamiliar to the emotional part of my brain !

My wife noticed my eyes were glassy.  Perhaps it was the cool breeze.
We started our walk back to our gracious hosts Frensi and Ignacio.   We smiled contemplating the assortment of desserts that awaited us.